Before we left in Jamie's room:
The train:
Jamie and I each had our own row of seats on the train which was great. We were also each given a blanket, ear plugs, and an eye mask.
I took a dose of Nyquil in hopes of catching some zzzz’s. The ticket collector came around and asked where we were going, Myrdal. Oh, he said, you know there are trolls there? We replied with a smile. Sleep was impossible on the train. No matter how many positions I tried I could not get comfortable. Around 4:45 am the train pulled into Myrdal. The ticket collector came around to warn us of the upcoming stop and that it was very cold outside. That it was! We tried the front door to the train station and it wouldn’t move! I was scared. It was pitch black, we were who knows where, and it was freezing! We walked around back. I stared into the darkness in search of surroundings. I noticed the dark outline of a mountain. It would be morning before we realized the true beauty of this place. The back door was unlocked, thank goodness. As we walked in we noticed how cozy warm it was inside and that there was another couple inside with the same idea. We laid our thin train blankets on the cement floor, pulled down our eye masks and settled down into an attempt for sleep.
Yeah right. The floor sucked every bit of warmth from our bodies. We shivered and shut our eyes until the sun rose. I woke with nearly every piece of clothing I had brought on and my arms pulled into my sweater. But look around! The view from our morning window was amazing!
Salient mountains, breathtaking vallies filled with trickling ribbons of mountain spring water, patches of grassy fluff and traditional houses. We were in NORWAY!
After washing up in the train station and drinking coffee made with hot sink water we waited for the Flamsbana to arrive.
The Flamsbana winds and descends through the picturesque scenery of Norway. It is by no means a local’s transport, but a tourist’s paradise. The train heads down the mountains through a series of tunnels.
It even stops for a 5 minute break at a waterfall for a picture break. Unfortunately for us the waterfall had run dry when we stopped.
Flam itself is gorgeous. It is a tiny traditional, but tourist oriented town on the Sognefjord. The view is unbelievable. The entire time I was there I felt like I was dreaming.
From Flam we headed up the mountain side. We were super excited to start hiking.
Little did we know what lay ahead. When we stopped and asked for specific information on the hike, we were told it was a “nice walk”. He forgot to mention in was completely up a steep mountain side. The first 2 hours of the hike, especially, we more like an intense mountain climb. Up, up, up. Switchback after switchback on steep forest hills. We stopped nearly every 5 minutes to catch our breath.
Near the top we stopped for a cookie break. We were exhausted and drenched in sweat. Onward. We asked a passerby how much longer until the hut. He stared at us and informed us that it was a dangerous 5 hour hike into the hut. Probably seeing how exhausted we were, seeing our tennis shoes, and our huge backpack he was a little frightened for us. Great… at that point I was seriously considering turning back, but we’d made it this far, right? We hiked through, rather sloshed through a boggy area. My shoes were completely soaked. The through a rocky valley and rounded the corner to a lake and a glacier. Yes, a glacier!
Continuing up we climbed a shaky rock face, across a mountain top, and down through another valley. Because we hadn’t started hiking until around noon, the sun had begun to set. The hut was still nowhere in sight. Around every corner we hoped for the hut, but no. By 8 we began to panic. I was scared. It was too cold to sleep without walls and we were in the middle of nowhere and exhausted. All we could do was continue walking. We walked faster and faster to each turn until finally around 9 we spotted the glorious sight of Grindflyhytta!
Only about ½ hours walk away!
As we turned the crafted knob of the unlocked hut we had no idea what a surprise we were in for. The door swung open and we were met with a beautiful sight. A wood stove, fully equipped kitchen, 8 sheeted beds, electricity, and safely for the night. Starving, right away we decided to boil some water for some Ramen. Impossible. We walked over to the other hut were we’d seen someone earlier and asked for some help. He, the caretaker, not only helped us light the stove, but started a fire for us, showed us the water hose, and gave us a tour of the pantry…yes the pantry! There was enough food in there for a year. Let me remind you that we are miles and miles from civilization. Everything had been brought in by helicopter.
Our candle lit dinner:
The couple hours we spent there were probably the most surreal and fulfilling moments I’ve had in my life. Simply being able to sit down to a hot meal and a warm bed was such a gift.
At dinner I decided to go through the old guest books in search of Madame Nisswandts name. Unbelievably, I found it! There, in the roughed up guestbook, I saw Kirsten and Ingrid Nisswandts names, written in 1988 (20 plus years ago). Madame, we did it!
We set the alarm for 7 and snuggled in that night with full bellies and the wind howling outside.
As soon as the beeping started the following morning I was up and ready. Although a little sore, I felt good. Jamie had helped me wash my hair in the sink the night before and I had rinsed my clothes of and hung them by the fire. Never before had I appreciated dry, somewhat clean clothes as I did that morning. We boiled some water, made coffee and enjoyed some bread and jam.
Looking back on it that place was a dream. The most peaceful place I’ve ever spent time. It sat next to a small lake nestle between Norwegian mountains and trickling streams.
Leaving the hut was horrible. Once again we were several hours from civilization. We started hiking a little after 9; through a rocky valley, past a lake, over a mountain, and down into another valley. It was extremely windy and cold but my clothes were drenched in sweat. My ankles and knees weren’t steady due to improper shoes and my back ached from a 30 lb. pack.
At the top of the mountain we spotted a city. Little did we know that it was 3 hours away through a horribly steep and unlevel decent. For most of the way Jamie and I chatted about how exciting our upcoming trips were, our families, and how unreal this hike was. The other parts we walked in unconcentrated silence. The scenery was breathtaking. The mountain streams were so clear that we could fill our water bottles in them and see no impurities. They were as blue as a sugar mint.
When we finally emerged from the mountains it was around 3 pm and we had no idea where we were. There were no signs, anywhere! Finally we found a highway and a bus stop. We were somewhere near Stalheim. We waited at the bus stop for over an hour.
At this point we were getting a little nervous. Voss was a 30 minute drive away and our legs were in no condition to walk that. A great idea presented itself…hitch hike! 2 cars passes before the buss came. Haha! I’ve never been so excited to see a bus. We were in those mountains, on top of that mountain, is all we could chat about on the ride into Voss. The whole experience felt like a dream. We waited 50 minutes in Voss until a train came that took us into Bergen.
On the train we devoured an entire pack of cookies. A very nutritious dinner if I do say myself. We arrived in Bergen an hour later than planned. Will told us to meet him at the statue “with Vikings and shit on it near McDonalds”. Nothing like being an American tourist and asking where the Vikings and McDonalds are in Norway. Not having a phone, we asked a local girl if we could use her phone. Will had to work until 9 so we hung out by the Viking statue for awhile. Seeing Will walk up was like going home. A familiar face in a very faraway place. We headed back to his place, met his Norwegian girlfriend, Ayla, and settled into the couch for a movie. Waking up the next morning I felt like I had been hit by a truck. On top of that the only food we had was spaghetti and coffee. So, for breakfast that’s what we had.
Around noon we headed into town. Bergen is a gorgeous city.
It is very colorful compared to Oslo. The people seem more lively, the streets are busier, and even the buildings themselves are all different hues. First, we walked through the famous fish market.
We found it helps to be a little nosey with the vendors. If you ask what they’re selling they are more than likely to give you a little taste.
We tried salmon that was so fresh it melted on your tongue and whale…yes whale! It tastes like a fishy steak. Norway is actually 1 of 2 countries that still hunts whale, even though it is illegal. We also tried some different cheeses, honeys, and lefse. The lefse we fell in love with and had to buy. Lunch!
There were also plenty of tourist shops, which I always like.
By far my favorite was the Julhuset, “Christmas House”!
Later we toured a Viking hall and the city’s Stavkirken.
On the way there we missed the bus stop, if we were even on the right bus… so we asked the bus driver for help. He thought for a second, and then decided we were too lost and that he was personally going to drive us there in the empty bus on his way back to the garage. Tusen Takk bus driver! Some of the others weren’t so nice… I asked one a question in English. He stared at me blankly and responded in Norwegian. Thanks buddy. Another just drove right by us at the bus stop after making complete eye contact with me. The next bus didn’t come for a half hour. That night we met Will at the bus stop. We did some grocery shopping and headed back to his place for spaghetti. Again, we ended the night cuddled up watching a movie. Saturday e weren’t so lucky with the weather. The rain returned. We went t the Bryggen museum where we learned about the days when Bergen was the center of trade in Europe.
From there we strolled through the market again and went to the cultural museum where we learned about the ice age, Vikings, Henrick Ibsen, Norwegian missionaries in Madagascar, folk art, wedding costumes, and oddly American Indians and the Egyptians. We drug our feet all day. Still, we were sore from the hike. The next morning, or last in Bergen, Will whipped out his stash of American pancake mix and his Aunt Jemimah and treated us to a feast of deliciousness. The whole time we all raved about missing home. Will even said that he loved Aunt Jemimah so much that he was going to tattoo her on his heart. I feel the same way buddy. This was the start of a very homesick day for me.
On top of that we had a 3 hour wait at the train station and a 7 hour train ride to think about it all. Saying goodbye to Will was like saying goodbye to a sweet glimpse of home. So hard to watch it slip away. We finally were back in Oslo. Things weren’t good though. We were exhausted, my computer has a nasty virus, Russia fell through, and it’s raining. WoW! Blue skies are coming though. I know it!
While in those woods something happened. I can’t describe it. It something you have to experience for yourself, but it changes you. It’s something about being completely severed from civilization that make one realize how fleeting life is. From here on out I vow to never waste another day on petty worries and to cherish everything I have and am able to do. I love my family, I love my friends, and I love this life. Let’s party!
Because of this, while I was sitting on the train back, watching the world wiz by, I had an epiphany! I’ve known that I want to be a teacher, but in the back of my mind I’ve always been hesitant about small kids. My dream was to teach high school. I just didn’t know what I wanted to teach. I do know! Switch of plans. I’m now thinking of majoring in international studies, with a minor in geography and coaching. This way I can teach international studies, geography, and maybe be even world history in middle school and high school as well as be a swim coach. Life is complete! This time it feels right. I’d stay down at the University of Minnesota for another 2 semesters to complete my swim and dive coaching, but then head back home where I can do my assistant coaching and student teaching in the city I love. Oh! And save a little bit of money so I can continue my travels. With an international studies major you are required to take another language. I’d really love to go to South America so I’m thinking of learning Spanish as well as continuing my studies in French. As a teacher the learning never has to end! That’s what I love about it.
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